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    • #4382
      Points: 4,164

      This seems like a rough topic for some. I have come across a lot of people that have trouble with the germination process. Sometimes I think a little too much thought is being put into it & that’s where things go wrong.

      I’ve been using the same process since I’ve started & have only had 1 seed not pop out of 34 I’ve attempted.

      All a seed needs to pop is a little moisture & a bit of warmth.


      I myself.. 

      I soak overnight in a labeled shot glass  6-8hrs

      If it hasn’t sunk to the bottom.. I give it a little poke. If then it decides to sink, I will move it to a paper towel, or coffee filter (If handy)

      The tap roots will not stick to the coffee filter as they would to a paper towel.


      After a 1/2′ long tail has sprouted I drop my seed in a small hole about 1/2cm deep & pinch the soil to cover + mist with tap water (7.7ph/140ppm unadjusted)

      Since I already have a tap root, I can just mist the top soil & wait for a sprout.

      No excessive watering, no high powered lights, no over-loving your seed. All we need is patience here.

      You do not need to buy a humidity dome!  (However I often use the tray to sit my starter cups/pots in.)

      <span style=”font-size: 12pt;”>You also do not need to make up for not using one by placing a cup over the planted seed to maintain a certain humidity level.  Let them sprout with what environment you are able to give. If using a cup.. it’s possible to shock you’re plant when introducing it to your environment which most likely will be a big swing. </span>

      I may use a small heater, or seedling mat for warmth, 1 small 4′ fan to move air, so the plant does not sit in stagnant air. Extraction is not really necessary just yet.
      <p style=”direction: ltr;”>For lighting I use 6500K CFL light bulbs. (Literally upside down. 😐 ) </p>
      These bulbs can be kept as close at just a few inches.

      What color light is 6500 Kelvin?

      blue-white light

      4600K-6500K: gives off a bright amount of blue-white light, similar to that of daylight; best for display areas and work environments where very bright illumination is needed. 6500K and up: gives off a bright bluish hue of light, often found in commercial locations; best for bright task lighting.

      This particular kelvin or higher will keep node spacing tight. 

      The lower you go, the more red/less-no blue light.

      The lower kelvin light emits a reddish yellow/white, bringing out more red.

      These are good for flower, however in a great amount when it comes to producing buds on a cannabis plant.

      (I have literally seen a unit made of LED light bulbs. DIY’ers do amazing things!)

      Using more reds in veg can promote stretching/wider node spacing.

      I’ve even used my LED driver to substitute for a mat once just to keep it warm & away from high powered light.


      The longest I have left seedlings under this lighting I want to say was about a month from seed. I was only in it for the tight nodes. Tight nodes make for some nice colas.


      Once your seedling break soil, you want to gat that fan going to make em dance just a little.. not too much wind. This will help gain thickness & strength in your stems.

      Not like this lol

      <iframe class=”giphy-embed” src=”https://giphy.com/embed/HmTLatwLWpTQk&#8221; width=”480″ height=”324″ frameborder=”0″ allowfullscreen=”allowfullscreen” data-mce-fragment=”1″></iframe>

      via GIPHY

      Cheers friends. If you have any questions, anything to add, or A different method that’s worked great for you please don’t hesitate to share.

    • #4422
      Points: 691

      I just go strait into cups, water well. Water it dries up after a few days spray only the area where seed is with a few mists of water. Once it sprouts give more and more water each time. Boom easy peasy.

      Works every time for me as long as seeds aren’t old. Normally pops in 3-4 days. I’ll wait 10 if nothing I don’t bother past that.

      • #4564
        Points: 4,164

        A drop of 3% peroxide has been said to help with germinating older seeds.

    • #4565
      Points: 4,164

      For new growers who don’t know when they would need to transplant from a cup, I would suggest doubling up on the cups. Place your soil in a clear cup, plant in there. (Be sure to make holes in the bottom of your cups for drainage.)
      Use a colored cup as a sleeve to block the light from your roots. This will allow you to check how far along your roots are coming along. You want to wait til your roots are visible through the clear cup.

      A little hack I’ve used to make transplanting easier is cutting the cup i plant in.. in half. Then lining them up in another cup. Add your soil & seed.
      once you transplant, the cup will peel off of your root ball.

      The roots tend to grow through the drainage holes. To lessen the risks of damaging roots that may get caught up, burn 🔥  your holes in the cups instead of creating razor like edges with scissors.

    • #4676
      Points: 605

      Good tips. I just put the seed in water, in a dark and slightly warmer than ambient temp area until it cracks and a tap root appears. Doesn’t have to be but a few millimeters long. Then to the spongy root plugs and in a small humidity dome with a homemade light until it sprouts. Then into the soil for it’s final home.

      I also find it helps to only germinate when the moon phase is waxing and not waning. I usually get 100% germination. Next seed I start I’ll no a post. Should be Oct. 27 through Nov. the 6th


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