Light stress !

[WetDawg1967]

Can anyone help me out with the correct distance between the canopy and light , im using the upgraded se 7000 730 w commercial light.
Its my first indoor grow .
A video walk through grow ,seed to harvest using this light would save me and my little girls.
Any help would be greatly appreciated 🙏

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[Atom]

Wish I could say I could help you, but unfortunately I don’t own an SE series. I do have an SF4000 and it took me a bit of adjusting height and intensity but I settled on roughly 20 inches and 80%. I do know you can run those closer. You’ll likely have to play around with it to get the best results. Hopefully someone else can chime in with atleast an SE series if not the 7000.

[Native Sugar Shack]

Hi! I can help! I’ve documented on video a complete grow with the SE7000 that includes weekly hanging height, power setting, resulting VPD, and DLI. You can find this grow on my YouTube, Native Sugar Shack. The series that just harvested is titled Spider Farmer SE7000 GG4 & Gorilla Cookies. Check out the weekly updates & you’ll find the information you seek 😊👍

[IamN2pot]

@WetDawg1967, sorry for the late responce. In the picture of your girls, first thing is they look very healthy. I do see what could be just lighting or could be the beginning of a Mag (magnesium) deficiency. When the leaf veins are dark green and in between the leaf is yellowing, it’s a mag def, and LED’s are notorious for causing mag (and other) def. Are your leaves starting to look like that or was it just the lighting? Google “magnesium deficiency marijuana leaves” for some pictures, oh and here is a link to a video on the subject, https://youtu.be/SjEQivmJ03A

As for how close you can run your SE7000. The simplist answer I can give you is I can’t say with just the info you have given. If I make the assumption you are not using CO2, then a good answer is at least 600 micromoles (umoles) and not over 1000 umoles. If you are using CO2, then according to Dr Bugbee, there isn’t really any ceiling, AS LONG AS YOU INCREASE ALL OTHER INPUTS, water and nutes! So the next question is how to measure umoles? Well, truthfully you need a ‘true’ PAR meter. The gold standard meter IS Dr. Bugbee’s Apogee meters, here, https://www.apogeeinstruments.com/ , But if you don’t have NASA funding ($500+), there are cheaper options. Here is my thread on the PPFD maps I made with a product Shane from Migro recomended.
Here are links to my threads on this. My new PPFD light meter setup, https://forum.spider-farmer.com/forums/topic/a-never-ending-thread-of-user-made-ppfd-maps/
and a link to De. Bugbee’s interview with Shane from Migro, https://forum.spider-farmer.com/forums/topic/latest-dr-bugbee-interview-from-shane-migro-a-must-watch/ Pay close attention to what the Dr says around 45 minutes in about PAR and C02 maximums.

Keep growing and hoping that info helps with your girls.

[Spider Farmer]

Hi friend, for the growth stage of your plants, without adding additional CO2, you can adjust the distance between the light and the canopy to 16”, with the brightness set at 50%.
This value is used as a reference, and you can adjust the distance again, depending on the specific conditions of your plants.

Here is also a picture for reference.
Hope this is helpful.

[Brad104]

Can I ask you why in your booklet that comes with the SE series lights that it says if the temperature is below 82° F that it can be ran 8″ from the canopy.I personally run the SE 5000 series at 12″ from canopy and the tent temp is never above 80 or below 70.I also don’t use CO2 either.I just wanted to ask you about the height requirements in your booklet for it’s totally different than theese without CO2. Not trying to be a jerk just wondering why it States that number at that temp in the booklet as it does closer without CO2 @ that temp and if above 82°f it says to run it at 12″ but as stated I’m having good success at 12″ above canopy without CO2 now with my SE 5000 .   Thanks again SF

You guys make quality equipment with industry leading hardware@ an affordable price, and thank you for another awesome giveaway! Good luck to all who enter!!!!!!!!!

[Atom]

For anyone running an SF4000 and find that you have maxed out the hight and your plants are still stretching, you can hook up more plant yoyos. One on each corner and get more space. Definitely leave yourself room if you do this so you don’t potentially burn the roof of your tent. I opted to do this option and run light at 100% instead of just turning the intensity down.

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[Brad104]

Good stuff@atom

[howdy howdy]

I am using a Spider  SE4500 setup in a AC Infinity 4x4x8 tent.  I am also using a wicking system with hydroponic nutrients.  I have wonderful success in the first 35-40 days of flower 12/12 cycle.  Excellent bud formation and a strong base. Tent is fully vented, and temp controlled. I think I have this part down.

My problem is at about 40 days it all comes crashing down.  The nutrients have been updated to the flowering cycle. Initially all seems ok.  Plants starts to look like it’s a nutrient problem but also seems like light burn.  I have been pressing the light percentage up to use more of the light spectrum.  I do not seem to be able to do anything to recover. Within days all of the buds have brown leaves instead of rich green of 7 days ago. The end product never fully develops.

Currently 2 different strains growing. One of them is not having any problem at all, so it’s not something that is spreading to other plant.  There is something going on with LED lights I do not understand, I think..

Getting tired of starting over, might go back to the old way.   Thoughts?

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