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IamN2pot

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    • #9899
      IamN2pot
      Participant
      Points: 961

      Any seeds being made? 😕

    • #9842
      IamN2pot
      Participant
      Points: 961

      Just a quick update on the veggies. I had an issue with BER (blossom end rot) on my tomatoes. It’s a common problem caused by a Calcium deficiency. I an using FoxFarms Ocean Forest and what I thought was a Potasium deficiency in my cannabis grow turns out to be Calcium. THey look almost the same in the leaves, so I just assumed it was Potasium about 1/2 way through bloom that was low. See what tomatoes taught me! My soil isn’t low in Calcium any more and after over doing it to start, the tomatoes have recovered and don’t have any more signs of BER on the new fruit.

      Fresh tomatoes (and salads) in January,     Y U M !!!!!   …and the peppers aren’t far behind, but they hide well, LOL!

      http://forum.spider-farmer.com/wp-content/uploads/hm_bbpui/9842/0mcv6d3k4ddt5od3haf1k6u5s3ieqa0m.jpg

    • #9706
      IamN2pot
      Participant
      Points: 961

      Nice lookin ladies! To answer your question, yes, dimming your light will have the same effect as raising it, less photons hitting the cannopy will stretch the plant. As far as your questions about turning down the lights without effecting growth, everything you do to your plants will effect their growth. 🙂 Raising or dimming the lights, in general, will cause stretching between internodes and also slow overall growth and reduce the harvest size. Again, in general, more light equals more compact and faster growth and overall bigger harvest. You may want to watch this video. It has excelent info on marijuana lighting and effect on growth. https://forum.spider-farmer.com/forums/topic/latest-dr-bugbee-interview-from-shane-migro-a-must-watch/
      Hope that helps.

    • #9456
      IamN2pot
      Participant
      Points: 961

      @WetDawg1967, sorry for the late responce. In the picture of your girls, first thing is they look very healthy. I do see what could be just lighting or could be the beginning of a Mag (magnesium) deficiency. When the leaf veins are dark green and in between the leaf is yellowing, it’s a mag def, and LED’s are notorious for causing mag (and other) def. Are your leaves starting to look like that or was it just the lighting? Google “magnesium deficiency marijuana leaves” for some pictures, oh and here is a link to a video on the subject, https://youtu.be/SjEQivmJ03A

      As for how close you can run your SE7000. The simplist answer I can give you is I can’t say with just the info you have given. If I make the assumption you are not using CO2, then a good answer is at least 600 micromoles (umoles) and not over 1000 umoles. If you are using CO2, then according to Dr Bugbee, there isn’t really any ceiling, AS LONG AS YOU INCREASE ALL OTHER INPUTS, water and nutes! So the next question is how to measure umoles? Well, truthfully you need a ‘true’ PAR meter. The gold standard meter IS Dr. Bugbee’s Apogee meters, here, https://www.apogeeinstruments.com/ , But if you don’t have NASA funding ($500+), there are cheaper options. Here is my thread on the PPFD maps I made with a product Shane from Migro recomended.
      Here are links to my threads on this. My new PPFD light meter setup, https://forum.spider-farmer.com/forums/topic/a-never-ending-thread-of-user-made-ppfd-maps/
      and a link to De. Bugbee’s interview with Shane from Migro, https://forum.spider-farmer.com/forums/topic/latest-dr-bugbee-interview-from-shane-migro-a-must-watch/ Pay close attention to what the Dr says around 45 minutes in about PAR and C02 maximums.

      Keep growing and hoping that info helps with your girls.

    • #9437
      IamN2pot
      Participant
      Points: 961

      @BigApple, Buy one of these controllers, and be sure to get at least 20% off or go to close the page and get the Make an Offer.
      Digital Heating and Cooling Professional Thermostat Controller -40-176°F 15A/1875W BN-LINK

      but before you buy one, read my post over here on how to set it up. https://www.thcfarmer.com/threads/how-do-you-control-a-heater-and-exaust-fan-in-your-tent-which-controller.145078/

      In my tents, with a cold intake/outside temp differance of more than about 20-25* between my tents inside temp (75-80*) and the ouside intake air (50-60*), I have issues with condensation on the inside of the tent and humidity getting into the 80% range. Not good. You said your intake air was as low as 30’s*-40’s* and we want our tent in the upper 70’s* to lower 80’s* so yes, you might expect to be needing/running a dehumidifier inside the tent.

      Feel free to ask me any questions about getting it setup and hope that helps.
      N2

    • #9415
      IamN2pot
      Participant
      Points: 961

      @BigApple, As I understand it, (I’m a dirt farmer) you will feed with every watering at recomended rates. Yes, always begin any ‘feeding’ regime at 1/2 dose, but increase it to recomended levels as the plants allow. As I recall from my hydro experiments, the feeding regime(s) call for a ‘flush’ about every 7-10 days. Now I always did a flush with pure, pH’ed water, but I recently read a post discribing how one could/should do the flush with water that is pH’ed and nuted to the desired PPM/EC levels and just do a “double” wattering to flush out the accumulated salts and leave the plant with a fresh feed. Made sense to me and if/when I play around with hydro again, I’ll be trying my weekly flushes that way, a flush and feed.

      Hope that helps you.  N2

    • #9407
      IamN2pot
      Participant
      Points: 961

      Time for another veggie garden update. Baby green tomatoes every where. Our bell pepper plant has loads of blooms and the leafy greens, kale, cilantro and spinach are being eaten on a regular basis. We’re really looking forward to tomatoes and peppers in Feb and March.

      http://forum.spider-farmer.com/wp-content/uploads/hm_bbpui/9407/motmnobsz3ln7qnlotz5jh603jy2a8h4.jpg

    • #9314
      IamN2pot
      Participant
      Points: 961

      I’m gonna throw a plug in here for an old and personal friend, Todd McCormick over at Authentic Genetics. AGSeedCo.com is a seed vendor that I can recommend unconditionally! Not all seed vendors are what they claim and I’ll leave it at that. Suffice to say that I’ve known Todd since our days in the mid 90’s when we were both American refugees from the drug war, and living in Amsterdam with many other expats growing weed. Todd’s seed are honest, genuine old school genetics, mixed with a few new twists.

      Stay tuned, my next grow come spring, will be a tent full of his ‘new’ Mariwanna variety and my other tent with his NL2 x Haze. He asked me to grow out some of his NL2 x Haze to see how close he has come to breeding a replica of the NL5 x Haze I grew back in ’96 from Nevil and Ben at Sensi Seed that won the hydro High Times Cannabis Cup for Arjan and The Green House coffie shop, but that’s a story for another time. Here….
      Keep Seeding!

    • #9169
      IamN2pot
      Participant
      Points: 961

      @Brad104 and @Loves2Trim and anyone else getting one of these temp controllers. The ‘magic’ lies in a hidden setting. It is the very last setting in your owners manual, under Advanced Settings. The ST setting is what you want to set before setting anything else. When you enter the ST mode, it will reset ALL other setting to default, so do this FIRST! BN-Link does not bother to mention how to access that ST setting. Shame on BN-Link! To access it, you have to press the set button and the CF/ST button at the same time. That will take you to the ST setting where you can change it from 10 to 01. Then you will also want to set your Hd and Cd values to 0 (zero). Make sure your CF  setting is on F, set your SV for something that the PV can not hit, like 70.0, and get to playing with it. That should allow you to hold your set temp while the controller tried to hit a SV that doesn’t exist on the PV. back and forth and back and forth………heater, exaust, heater, exaust……  equals a steady temp with ventilation!

      Here is that manual, for your refference, https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0018/2521/0421/files/BNQ-T10Wifi.pdf?v=95648123402206472

    • #9140
      IamN2pot
      Participant
      Points: 961

      Pinine has always been my favorite. Some very piney smelling flowers were the very first ‘homegrown’ I ever smoked. It was some weed from Cali, or so we were told, came in a quart mason jar with a wax seal on the lid. Stuff was $300 oz back in ’80-’81. Someday I’ll find that smell again, …it’s just a matter of time.

    • #9139
      IamN2pot
      Participant
      Points: 961

      Well fellow winter gardeners, it’s been a week since I updated our veggie grow. @Brad104, the Cali Golden bell pepper is doing great. Still don’t know why the Giant Green bell peppers didn’t sprout. Oh well.

      The tomatoes have flower bud that will be opening in the next few days. Kale is going crazy. The wife just took her 3rd salad for lunch today. That made her day, a fresh salad. (boys, happy wife…….. 💡 )

      Enjoy the pictures….

    • #9126
      IamN2pot
      Participant
      Points: 961

      Love your logic @Atom. Problem for dirt farmers,  I use a “super soil” receipe, so all I add is pH’ed and filtered water for the first 10-12 weeks of a grow. After 5-6 weeks in veg and about 5-6 weeks into flower, I may start to see defeciancy issues, especially P, and start adding some organic liquid fert as needed up until the last 1-2 waterings or 3-5 days before harvest.

      One other point in favor of continuing to feed up to harvest is weight. My last harvest I took 1 of 4 clones that all got the exact same treatment at 55 days and another at 65. This wasn’t my first time doing this and my records show this repeats over and over. The plant(s) taken at 55 days are always 10-20 grams lighter then ones taken at 65. Just saying. An extra 40-80 grams on a 4 plant grow is more than enough ROI for me. I’m a firm believer in feeding AS NEEDED right up to harvest. If I stopped feeding at day 55, would I still get more from plants on day 65, YES, but in my opinion, only about 1/2 as much extra.

      But like I always say, experiment for yourself. Have more than 1 plant? Feed one and starve the other and compare. “The proof of the pudding is in the eating.” This is all about what you like!!!!!

       

       

    • #9414
      IamN2pot
      Participant
      Points: 961

      They do great under the light and indoors. Flavor? best darn tomatoes I/we ever ate or grew. Best of all, growing inside in a “sterile” enviroment means no thrips, aphids, leaf miners, white flies, jumping beetles, catapillars….! You get the picture. Talk about pick and eat…… . If you have the room, I highly recomend adding you favorite(s) to your grow room.

      WARNING: never move or put plants from outside into your indoor cannabis garden, unless you like playing russian roulette with insects. Start from seed!!!

    • #9358
      IamN2pot
      Participant
      Points: 961

      extreemly terpy. The wife even commented on how good it smelled and she doesn’t smoke. THe press is a Dulytek 7 ton V5. If you go to the website, it only has the V4 listed and I do NOT recomend buying one of those. I only got one of the newest V5 models after going through 6 warrantied out bottle jacks on the V4. The V5 has a redesigned press and bottle jack and it’s holding up, so far. If I had it all to do over, I would go with the 10 ton dabpress and add the hand pump with it’s PSI gauge.  Much nicer overall setup IMHO!

    • #9101
      IamN2pot
      Participant
      Points: 961

      L2T, I didn’t realize that hitting the ‘reply’ to Brads post would insert it between your post. Sorry about that. Still learning how to post on this forum. Anyway, you’ll love the climate controller.My current garage temp is 58.1* and the tent is a toasty 70.1*. Keep us posted. I’m thinking you’re gonna love it!

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